GR20 – Corsica Traverse

The GR20 is often described as the toughest waymarked trail in Europe – and for good reason. It crosses the mountainous spine of Corsica from Calenzana in the north to Conca in the south, weaving through the island’s wild granite heart. Over roughly 180 km, it climbs and descends through steep valleys, pine forests, high passes and rough ridgelines carved by wind and time. Every day feels earned. This is not a trail that eases you in – it demands commitment, endurance and focus from the first step.

• Crossing Corsica from north to south through the island’s highest ranges
• Granite ridges, alpine lakes and wild plateaus
• Scrambling sections with chains and ledges
• Rustic refuges and tent areas high in the mountains
• Constant views from sea to summit

The GR20 is a test of rhythm and resilience. You climb hard, descend harder and every ridge gives way to another. Yet the sense of freedom and immersion is unmatched. The trail moves through landscapes that feel untouched – granite towers, glacial cirques, cold streams and endless sky. For those who enjoy real mountain challenge without technical climbing, this route delivers both struggle and reward.

Start: Calenzana – accessible by bus or taxi from Calvi

Finish: Conca (near Porto-Vecchio) – bus or taxi to Porto-Vecchio, then ferry or flight to mainland France

Nearest airports: Calvi (CLY) / Bastia (BIA) / Ajaccio (AJA)

The trail is divided into 15 – 16 stages. The northern half (Calenzana to Vizzavona) is the harder part – steep ascents, exposed ridges and short scrambling sections with chains. The southern half (Vizzavona to Conca) is smoother, more rolling and less technical but still demanding. Surfaces shift from boulders and scree to pine forest trails and rocky slabs. Waymarks are red and white, clear in good weather but harder to follow in fog or heavy rain. Navigation is straightforward, yet terrain and exposure make it a real alpine route.

Water is usually available near refuges and streams, but sources can dry up in late summer. A filter or purification tablets are essential. Food supplies are limited and expensive along the route. Some refuges sell basic provisions (pasta, cheese, tinned goods), but carrying backup meals is smart. Don’t rely on daily resupply – stock up in Calenzana, Vizzavona and Conca.

Refuges are spaced roughly one day apart and provide simple beds, meals and water. Many also rent pre-pitched tents or allow camping in designated areas nearby. Wild camping is prohibited outside these zones. The huts are basic – shared dorms, basic facilities, often crowded in July and August. Early reservations or flexible timing help avoid stress.

The GR20 gains around 13 000 m (42 650 ft) and loses about the same. The route’s highest point is around 2 607 m (8 553 ft) at Pointe des Éboulis, with an optional side trip to Monte Cinto (2 706 m / 8 878 ft). Several major passes sit above 2 000 m, including Bocca Minuta (around 2 200 m / 7 220 ft). Altitude isn’t the main issue, but the constant climbing is. Most stages involve 800 – 1 200 m (2 625 – 3 940 ft) of ascent and descent on rough granite terrain. Even fit hikers feel it after a few days, though a steady rhythm makes the effort more manageable.

No permits are required, but overnight stays are only allowed in or next to refuges. Fires are forbidden. The trail passes through Parc Naturel Régional de Corse – leave no trace and respect all restrictions on camping and waste disposal.

Best time: mid-June to late September. Early summer offers snow patches on high passes but fewer people; July and August bring heat and crowds; September gives cooler air and quieter trails. Afternoon storms and strong winds are common – start early and aim to finish stages by early afternoon. Refuges generally operate for the main season from roughly mid-May to early October, but conditions on the high passes can still be wintery outside the core summer window.

Durable boots with solid grip are essential. Trekking poles save knees on long descents. Carry a lightweight tent or use refuge tents. A warm sleeping bag, rain gear and backup power for GPS or phone are musts. Expect temperature swings from 5 °C mornings to 30 °C afternoons. This is a place for reliable equipment, not minimalism.

Rated 5 / 5 – very demanding. The GR20 is a full-commitment alpine route with constant climbing, exposure and rough footing. Some sections require using hands for balance or pulling on chains. Falls and fatigue are the main risks. Fitness, focus and steady pacing are key. Those prepared will find one of the purest long-distance mountain routes in Europe – intense, beautiful and honest.